Bernese were used for draft and cart work in their native Switzerland. Many Berners take to this fun activity naturally, others need some conditioning. The BMDCA offers titles to dogs that pass the test. The first level is Novice Draft Dog (NDD); the second is more advanced the Draft Dog title (DD).   There is also a Novice Brace Draft Dog title and a Brace Draft Dog title.

Read and know the BMDCA Draft Rules before entering a test.  During the walk through with the judges you may questions as to what you may or may not do during the test.

THE CART  --  The cart should be well balanced, of course.  Balance means that the weight does not force the shafts to place too much pressure onto the dog's back, neither should the weight cause the shafts to lift up on the dog.  A cart that turns easily and allows the dog to sidestep for turns is a help.  For the test, leave the decorations at home.   The less adornments to fall off or get in the way possibly spooking  the dog, the better.  This is not a parade.  You are serious about earning this title so be prepared.  It is a failure if the cart is faulty or breaks.

THE LEASH IN NOVICE DRAFT --   It is extremely important to maintain a loose (slack) lead during the test.  Many teams have been failed for using a tight lead which looks to the judge like the dog is being guided.   Be very conscious of the lead at all times during the test.

THE SLOW -- HOW SLOW CAN YOU GO??      By April Rifenburg

In working with us as a team, our dogs are required to exhibit control. The SLOW is one such exercise that demonstrates that the dog can and will change pace on command. While this seems like a fairly simple task to perform, many have found that this is simply not the case. In draft work, the slow is one of the main reasons a team is failed. In obedience, a dog that does not exhibit a change of pace to slow will lose points. However, in draft, if the dog does not exhibit a slow enough pace for ten feet, he/she will flunk!

Having flunked the slow portion in a draft test with an extremely well trained dog was a shock and an eye opener for me. Having watched other well prepared teams flunk the slow leaving their owners flabbergasted has made me realize that the slow in draft is VERY SLOW indeed. Practice the slow as much as you practice the back-up. Make the slow portion exaggerated.

If you have a dog that normally moves at a fast pace while pulling the cart, then the slow may be easier for the judge to see. However, the majority of the dogs pull at a moderate to slow pace. This makes it more likely that your dog will not go slow enough during the slow portion to suit the judges. If this is the case, you can hurry the dog up before the judge commands the dog to go slow so that the slow is more obvious in comparison. However, not all judges like that. And not all courses will allow you the chance to do that. In a draft test the handler may not "body block" the dog in any way so as to slow or stop the dog.

The surest way to pass the slow is to teach your Berner to execute an exaggerated slow, to the point of taking one step at a time. That is what I did with Nitro. During that slow portion of his Open Draft test, I was telling him "step, step, step, step, step".........while holding my hands up as a signal. I was on his right side. I kept this up until the judge said "halt." I taught him the stepping for agility work and it came in handy for the draft.

Teaching the slow is much like teaching the back-up. Begin without the cart on the dog! Help your dog learn by rewarding with a treat for the first and second very slow step. Tell him "slow" and hold your hands in front of his eyes helping him to execute this. Gradually build up the number of steps your dog takes. Release the dog from the slow with an "okay!" and a treat or some sort of release from the slow such as picking up the pace as you say "normal" or a play break.  This will help the dog to learn the pace difference and what you are teaching him. When your dog understands the concept, begin working the slow with the cart. Prior to the test, practice going slow for at least 15-20 feet. Work the slow, as well as back-up and other maneuvers, on all surfaces and terrain.

Passing a draft test is no walk in the park. There are lots of places to flunk. And draft tests do not abound. So be prepared. Practice and train. Keep early training short and sweet with lots of rewards. Avoid heat. And keep it fun. Different locations, a swim afterwards, working with friends and other dogs, pulling to the local hamburger stand and buying a tasty treat for your Berner--whatever motivates.

BACKING UP WITH A CART

This is how I taught Nitro to back with confidence. He knew how to back up without the cart.

To help him learn to push backwards on the harness/cart, I had him back his cart on a paved, *slightly* sloping downhill driveway. No resistance aided by gravity helped him get the idea.

When he was doing that well, I had him back on a paved flat area. Then we advanced to backing UP the slightly sloped driveway.

Confidence bloomed and we practiced backing on a variety of surfaces such as grass, gravel, sand, dirt, bumps, up slopes, down slopes etc. He also learned to back his cart quite a long distance and in the direction I pointed. This made practice more interesting and fun.

I always used treats and praise in the teaching phases.  A clicker would be most useful in teaching a dog to back up.  Click and treat the first slight movement backward and build from there.

DRAFT TIPS

QUESTION:  My dog is afraid of the cart behind her.  Should I give up hope for training her to pull a cart? Answer by JIM LAFROM, BMDCA Draft Judge

A progression of steps is the best type of approach for a dog that is worried or afraid of pulling a cart....
First, go on your walks with a long walking stick (nothing attached to the dog). I also would hold the leash in the middle and let the loose end bump the sides of the dog and let it rub over her back while walking. On
occasion I would take a short length of pole (2 ft) and just periodically rub it along the flanks of the dog while walking with a lot of positive happy talk. 

Second week and from then on, have the dog drag some light rope from either side of the collar during walks. She shouldn't be able to even feel the weight of it initially. As she becomes desensitized start increasing the thickness and weight. When she is not bothered by that anymore, using the same rope to tie a small weight (less than a pound) to each side and go for the walks dragging that weight. At some point she will understand that the rope is coming with her regardless of what she wants to do. JUST KEEP WALKING. Lots of happy talk. And don't coddle her. If at any point she starts resisting, just back up one step. Don't make this a negative experience. Keep things positive!

The other thing is that you might try training in a totally new location so that she has to focus on you and has no idea when the exercise will stop, also she can't depend on the safety of the house being just a couple hundred
yards away. Once she is reliable with rope dragging behind her then progress with the loose shafts. As you walk, you are holding one end of a 6-7 ft. pole dragging the other end of the pole behind you. It should scrape along the
ground approximately where the rear feet of the dog is. If she is intimidated by this, hold the pole in you outside hand away from the dog just for the noise level. Intermittently, direct the end of the pole, along the ground, closer to the dogs rear end but without touching the dog. At some point the dog will become accustomed to the noise. Another noise you might want to introduce is dragging empty plastic jugs. First with you pulling them
on a rope to get her used to the noise and eventually the jugs are tied to the ropes at the collar of the dog.
After gaining success with that, it is time to attach the loose poles to the harness. Then more walking with that rig. Lots of treats, lots of praise.

From that point you can introduce the cart. You should be able to have the dog desensitized within 2-3 weeks maximum with daily exposure.